Hr sway bar install

First time, I installed it with the bars over the drive shafts whoops! Second time, I installed it with the bars under the A arms whoops again! Then I realized the the bars go between the drive shaft and A arms. Problem is, I can't find any way to squeeze the bar up and through on both sides due to the shape of the bar. The stock bar is shaped differently - you can drop it out and put it back in without removing anything else.

I tried removing the 16mm bolt that holds in the A arm. No go - backed it out practically the entire length, but couldn't get it out. I actually ran out of space for the wrench. Can't hit it from behind with a socket either. When I called them, they said they don't provide installation advice and recommended I take it to Porsche. I told them that this is ridiculous, since the Porsche OEM part is shaped differently than their aftermarket part, and that the install would thus be different.

Go figure? Please let me know if you solved the install mystery - I'm stuck. BTW, to answer your question on raising the car see below:. I can tell you that the is a difficult car to put on jack stands. This is due to the fact that the jack points are tiny and there's not a lot of room to place your jack without damaging the body.

Start at the rear driver point and jack it up high enough to get a jack stand under the front driver point go two notches on the jack stands. Leaving the first jack in place, insert the second jack under the rear passenger-side jack point. Carefully raise the car high enough to place the second jack stand under the passenger front jack point. Double check the jack stands as you slowly lower the rear driver-side jack.

At this point, the front is up on jack stands and the rear passenger-side is supporting the car. Now place your jack carefully under the rear cross member. Slowly raise it, making sure it rests under the cross member without touching anything else as you raise it. Raise the jack slowly just high enough to place your third jack stand under the rear driver jack point.

Double check the jack stands as you slowly lower the passenger-side rear jack. Try to fit the last jack stand under the jack point. You may need to raise the cross member a little more to squeeze it under. Then slowly lower the car carefully - rechecking all jack stands. If you have an extra set of jack stands, for added safety you can place them underneath either side of the rear cross member. This may not be the quickest method, but then again, this is not the kind of car you want to drop.

I picked up some 3-ton jack stands at Sears. They're strong enough to support my cars, as well as the SUV. Take MyFast's advice on jacking You want em easily adjustable in the new sways On the comment about using I'm probably misunderstanding you there You can post now and register later.

If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. Took less that 20 mins to swap them after the Under shield was off. Talking the shield off taKes about 8 mins to unscrew and about 15 mins to figuring out how were and what bolts go where when re-installing the shield. Another factor is that screws holders that are in place or stretchered out. Making them difficult to get them all back in.

Also note that the front c-clamps don't have torx bolts and Have much easier bolts to remove. Front First:. Last edited by Darkpassenger02; at AM.

Audi A4 B8 S-line Black 2. It takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction. So is it true that the front sway bar is an easy swap with the car front up on ramps? I haven't taken my splash shield off to investigate yet. When I did the rear sway install, I had trouble reaching the top end link bolt on the driver's side with the tire on.

I ended up removing the tire and loading the suspension with a jack while tightening. I'm hoping the front has easy access to the end link bolts. By the way, did you just remove the bar from the end link, or also the end link from the suspension?

I realize your probably writing a DIY, just jumping ahead Originally Posted by sdy Last edited by Darkpassenger02; at PM. Rear Sway Bar:.

Yeah, the rear sway was a pain. I actually removed both rear wheels and lowered the exhaust holding it up with a jack. It's much easier to access the bolts and remove the old bar. Then I installed the new bar, raised the exhaust, put the bolts in and hand tightened. Then put the wheels back on, lowered onto ramps and torqued everything down except the one end link bolt I couldn't get at with the wrenches.

Good to hear the front is an easy install. Let me know your impressions on the front bar. Update: So the last time I wen't out driving after I installed The front and rear sway bars. I found that about half way though I had heard a sound coming out of my front right wheel well, but couldn't figure out where or what the sound was coming from. I guess after driving like a maniac for 4 hours on rough roads that are extremely unforgiving would do it.

Needless to say I took apart every bolt and re-installed all the bolts to make sure there were no other issues. In the process of putting everything together I had noticed that the drivers side part of the front sway bar Is actually not fitting properly with the lower Plastic splash guard. I found that the larger Metal arm and Bend hang lower and you have to force the plastic guard up so it will tighten into the cross member brace.

Good news was I also found an oil leak for the ECS Drain-plug replacement, that was not tight enough. It was pointed out that I did have the correct sway bar, but if you install the sway bar under the tie-rod bar and bolt it together then you've installed the bare incorrectly. To correctly install the sway-bar you'll need to reverse the bar and slide it in Above the tie-rod bar.

Meaning you may have to flip the bar around and mount it the opposite direction to get it installed properly. Hope everyone who attempts this install learns from my mistake and has success the first time around. Hear are the pic's of me installing the sway bar incorrectly, I will update the pics when I reverse the sway bars at a later date. Moral of the story is don't install this on a 98F degree Day and really pay attention to what way you removed the original bars.

Or just read the installation instructions, but who dose that anyway? I even used the pics on my phone to help me install the new bar originally and I still got it wrong; I Need to pay more attention to detail next time.

Proper Install Pic's: So the car definitely Handles completely different! I'm going to go test it out tomorrow morning to get some proper results and Review. My First test Drive with the new sways bars installed properly went much better than expected. The car preformed amazing well around the corners. Modifications: Parents ran out of money so they bought me tires that were way too small for my wheels.

I noticed that you have the front sways setup in the stiffest setting. I would suggest trying the front sway bars in the softest setting which is the outer most holes. And if possible install the rears in the stiffest setting. This will minimize understeer.